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Post by Rob DiStefano on Apr 8, 2008 12:16:27 GMT -5
Hey Rob....I read (most of) the thread over at TDPRI...whew! I also posted in it (Raytone) about the 1.5k resistor between pin 7 and the vol pot. Anyway, it already had one. I'm thinking it may be the speaker that's causing the rattle. I took the chassis and speaker out of the cab just to be sure it wasn't the metal grill, and it was still there. I don't want to send it back. I like it, but want that sound to go away. Just to be clear, it sounds sort of like the passive sound a snare drum makes when the thingies aren't backed off...not loud of course, and it really mainly does it on the A and low E strings. I don't have a 4ohm speaker to try to see if it cures the problem...could I use a 8 ohm using the 4ohm tap? Would it be a poor test (it wouldn't be in the cabinet....don't have another 8 incher either... Also, will the Weber CAV8 fit in there without messing with the baffle? It shows as 8 1/8" on the site while the Sig shows as 8". Sure sounds like a speaker problem. Running to an 8 ohm speaker is fine. The CAV8 will fit. Running with the 8A125T and it sounds just great. I've got a new AlNiCo Blue Pup coming to test out. After selecting what works best for me, I'll be selling either the 8A125T or the AlNiCo Blue Pup. Lemme know how yer testing goes!
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Post by Ray M. on Apr 8, 2008 12:26:47 GMT -5
thanks, will do.
Boy, that thread took on a life of it's own over there...eh?
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Post by Rob DiStefano on Apr 8, 2008 18:31:28 GMT -5
There's a TON of great single ended amp info in that thread.
Huge kudos to Paul (Specialty Guitars) for his GA5 mods and tweaks. The GA5 has got to be the easiest tube amp to mod and work on. The "trinity" mods alone are almost stupid simple to effect, and each of those three tweaks will make a difference in both tone and volume. I've learned a LOT and have begun to mod out all of my other amps with better filter and coupling caps, and tweaking other circuit configurations.
The next big thing with the GA5 is what Paul and I have been chatting about privately - changing the tube filament heater current from AC to DC. He's perfected it and I've got the goods to make it happen on my GA5. Making the move to DC will make this (or just about any tube amp) dead quiet, since there won't be any AC wires floating around and introducing noise. I'll post a pictorial here and on TDPRI when I get to actually doing the mod.
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Post by efnikbug on Apr 8, 2008 19:24:55 GMT -5
Of course, everything else gets rectified electricity. So will you be creating another rectifier for the heaters or modding the existing rectifier?
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Post by Rob DiStefano on Apr 8, 2008 20:16:27 GMT -5
Unlike the primary AC that gets rectified to DC for the power tubes, there is no rectification on the AC 6.3v that comes off the PT - it just goes directly out to the tube heater filaments. To turn AC to DC some kinda regulated rectification needs to be added, and that typically takes the form of a diode rectifier arrangement and some filter caps - in addition to the primary power tube rectification (in the GA5, that's s/s diodes).
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